Showing posts with label Automotive. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Automotive. Show all posts

Track Your Distance Through a Bicycle Odometer

Just like cars that measures the distance it can travel, you can also do it with your bicycles. We usually keep track of our mileage to see how far our strength can go but would it be of great use if we track it because we are maintaining a workout everyday considering the calories we are burning.

Hacks and Mods: Track Your Distance Through a Bicycle Odometer

If you want to make your own odometer, you will need a micro controller that generates pulse and a MOSFET that converts those voltage pulses. Just remember to check your batteries all the time.
The best way of burning calories is to move those muscles everyday! Set your bikes and your odometer! Burn fats!

Oil Temperature Gauge for 125 cc Scooter

Lots of Far-Eastern scooters are fitted with GY6 engines. These already elderly units are sturdy and economical, but if you want to  “push” the power a bit (so called ‘Racing’  kits, better handling of the advance, etc.), you soon find yourself faced with the problem  of the engine temperature, and it becomes essential to f it a heat sink (of ten wrongly  referred to as a ‘radiator’) on the oil circuit. Even so, in these circumstances, it’s more than reassuring for the user to have a constant clear indication of the oil temperature. Here are the specifications we set for the temperature gauge we wanted to build: 

Oil Temperature Gauge Circuit Diagram :


Oil Temperature Gauge-Circuit Diagram
  • no moving parts (so not meter movement), as scooters vibrate a lot!;
  • as cheap as possible (around £12);
  • robust measuring transducer (avoid NTC thermistors and other ‘exotic’ sensors);
  • temperature range 50–140 °C. (122 – 291 °F);
  • audible and visual warning in case of dangerous temperature;
  • compact;
  • waterproof.
Let’s start by the sensor. This is a type-K thermocouple, as regularly used by multimeter manufacturers. Readily available and fairly cheap, these are robust and have excellent linearity over the measurement range we’re interested in here. The range extends from 2 mV to 5.7 mV for ten measurement points. The positive output from the thermocouple is applied to the non-inverting input of IC3.A,  wired as a non-inverting amplifier. Its gain  of 221 is determined by R1 and R2. IC3 is an LM358, chosen for its favourable characteristics when run from a single-rail supply. IC3.B is wired as a follower, just to avoid leaving it powered with its pins floating. 

IC3.B output is connected to pin 5 of IC1, an LM3914. This very common IC is an LED display driver. We can choose ‘point’ or ‘bar’ mode operation, according to how pin 9 is connected. Connected as here to the + rail, the display will be in ‘bar’ mode. Pin 8, connected to ground, sets the full scale to 1.25 V. R3 sets the average LED current. Pin 4, via the potential divider R7/R8+R9, sets the offset  to 0.35 V. Using R8 and R9 in series like this avoids the need for precision resistors.

As per the LM3914 application sheet , R4-R5-R6 and C5 will make the whole display flash as soon as D10 lights (130 °C = 226 °F). Simultaneously, via R10 and T1, the (active) sounder will warn the user of overheating. Capacitor C6 avoids undesirable variations in the reference voltage in ‘flashing’ mode. IC2 is a conventional 7808 regulator and C1– C4 filter the supply rails. Do not leave these out! D1 protects the circuit against reverse polarity. 

The author has designed two PCBs to be fit-ted as a ‘sandwich’ (CAD file downloadable  from [1]). In the download you’ll also find  a document with a few photos of the project. You’ll note the ultimate weapon in on-board electronics: hot-melt glue. Better than epoxy (undoable!) and quite effective against vibration. 

Car Voltage Gauge

The Car Voltage Gauge is based on 3 parts. The input circuit is an Analog to Digital Converter (IC2 CA3162E). The purpose of this chip is to sample an analog voltage and convert it to a decimal value which is read by a Display/Decoder Driver (IC1 CA3161E). This chip will turn each seven segment display on through the driver transistor Q1 - Q3. The power is derived from the car and is converted to 5 volts by the 5 volt regulator. The circuit works as follows: The 10uf capacitor is charged up by the cars voltage. Its value is then read by IC2 and a decimal value of that voltage is provided to IC1 which multiplexes the three display units.


Car Voltage Gauge  Circuit Diagram



Car Voltage Gauge circuit diagram

Each display is turned on sequentially with its appropriate value displayed. The transistors Q1 through Q3 control the drive to each seven segment display. By monitoring the cars voltage with an accurate multimeter you can adjust the "Zero Adj." pot and the "Gain Adj." pot for accurate readings. LED 1 and 2 are optional. They can be used to indicate power on or can light up a cut out display that says "Volts". This can be made by a plastic module that has a thin plastic cover on it with the word "Volts" cut into it. The LED's would be mounted inside the module. 
 

2-Pin Automobile Indicator Lamp Flasher Circuit with Buzzer

If you want to make a flasher unit for you motorbike then this circuit is just for you. This simple turn signal flasher circuit can be  easily built and installed in any two wheelers for the desired actions. The circuit employs just two 2-pins instead of 3 as found in other flasher circuits. Once installed, the circuit will faithfully flash the side indicator lights whenever the intended function is switched ON. The circuit also incorporates an optional buzzer circuit which can be also included for getting a beeping sound in response to the flashing of the lamps.


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Parts List
R1, R2, R3 = 10K
R4= 33K
T1 = D1351,
T2 = BC547,
T3 = BC557,
C1, C2 = 33uF.25V
L1 = Buzzer Coil

Build a LED "Halogen" Lamp for Motorbike Headlamp Replacement

The post explains a simple 21 watt LED lamp circuit module which can be used as a direct replacement for a standard halogen lamp in motorcycles.


The proposed "halogen" LED lamp replacement module image can be seen below:


Conventional filament type halogen lamp is shown below:

The image at the top shows an example LED lamp replacement for a standard halogen bulb fitting shown below it.
With the easy and extensive availability of LEds, today it's quite possible to make any desired LED lamp module at home for replacing other forms of less efficient lamp options.
So here we'll discuss how to make the proposed halogen LED lamp replacement circuit. Let's learn the procedures:
Referring to the above image, we can see the LEDs are wired over 7 separate PCBs and then wired together to form one single module.
Each board can be seen with 3 LEDs each, constituting a total of 21 LEDs.
3nos LEDs are selected because the supply 12V available from the vehicle allows only 3nos to be connected in series, and series connection facilitates sharing the same current across the three LEDs.
Now since more than 3nos. of LEds cannot be accommodated in series, 7 such strings are connected in parallel with each other for achieving the desired 21 watts.

The above assembly must be done over a well designed heatsink cored glass epoxy PCB.
The entire configuration may be tightly fixed over an thick hexagonal aluminum cylindrical former or base to form the proposed halogen LED module unit. The aluminum will hep to sink the generated heat from the LEDs.

The above unit will strictly require a current controlled driver circuit which can be understood with the following points:

We once again take the help of the versatile LM338 IC for the required current control function.

Referring to the circuit diagram we ca see it in it's simplest current limiting mode. The LEDs consume around 2.5 amps together which is never allowed to exceed by the IC keeping the unit safe from the issue.
Aluminum mount or base design for fixing the LED PCB assembly



Comparison Between Conventional Halogen lamp and LED Halogen lamp Output


Output                              Conventional Incandescent    LED Halogen Lamp
Specs                               Halogen
     
Nominal wattage              55 watts                                       21 watts

Nominal voltage               12V                                               12V

Test voltage                     13.2V                                            13.2V


Color temperature          3200K                                           6000K

Luminous flux                 1500lm                                         2500lm
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