Showing posts with label Choice and Hobby. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Choice and Hobby. Show all posts

Railway Points Sequencer

Dedicated model rail enthusiasts using sophisticated train and points controllers often have the problem that as their layouts get bigger and more complex, the transformer supplying power to the points does not have enough current to switch several points at the same time. The actuators in the points are designed for ac operation so it doesn’t help by rectifying the supply and adding reservoir capacitors, the coils can overheat and burn out if they get jammed during their travel (ac operation actually helps to overcome friction in the mechanism). The circuit shown here solves this problem by using a sequencer to ensure than only one points actuator can be active at any point in time. During operation the controller will switch all the points on one line at the same time as usual, but the other connection to each coil is connected to the sequencer unit. This circuit will only allow current to flow through one coil at a time. 

Railway Points Sequencer Circuit diagram :
Railway Points Sequencer Circuit Diagram Railway Points Sequencer Circuit Diagram

The sequencer circuit consists of a 555 timer configured as an astable multivibrator clocking a 4017 Johnson counter where the ten outputs are used to switch ten triacs in sequence, enough for ten sets of points. P1 alters the oscillator frequency of the 555 timer and can be adjusted so that each time interval of the sequencer is long enough to allow the points to switch. 

The switching time varies depending on the type of points but is typically between 1 s and 1.5 s. Any points that jam during switching give out a characteristic humming noise in time to the switching frequency so it makes them easier to find. The eleventh output of the 4017 can be connected to an LED (together with a series resistor). This will flash to give a visual indication of the sequencers operation. Power for the circuit is provided by 15 V ac from the points transformer. The B80C1500 bridge rectifier (80 Vpiv, 1.5 A) and regulator IC1 produce a stabilised 12 V for the circuit. Current consumption is only a few milliamps.

Cranial Electrotherapy Stimulator

Current generated flows through clips placed on the earlobes Output current adjustable from 80 to 600 microAmperes
Owing to the recent launching in Europe of Cranial Electrotherapy Stimulation (CES) portable sets, we have been "Electronically Stimulated" in designing a similar circuit for the sake of hobbyists. CES is the most popular technique for electrically boosting brain power, and has long been prescribed by doctors, mainly in the USA, for therapeutic reasons, including the treatment of anxiety, depression, insomnia, and chemical dependency. CES units generate an adjustable current (80 to 600 microAmperes) that flows through clips placed on the earlobes. 

The waveform of this device is a 400 milliseconds positive pulse followed by a negative one of the same duration, then a pause of 1.2 seconds. The main frequency is 0.5 Hz, i.e. a double pulse every 2 seconds. Some people report that this kind of minute specialized electrical impulses contributes to achieve a relaxed state that leaves the mind alert. Obviously we can't claim or prove any therapeutic effectiveness for this device, but if you are interested in trying it, the circuit is so cheap and so simple to build that an attempt can be made with quite no harm.

Cranial Electrotherapy StimulatorCircuit diagram:

cranial-electrotherapy-stimulator-circuit diagram


Parts:
R1___________1M5 1/4W Resistor
R2___________15K 1/4W Resistor
R3___________100K Linear Potentiometer
R4___________2K2 1/4W Resistor
C1___________330nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C2___________100µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1___________3mm. Red LED
IC1___________7555 or TS555CN CMos Timer IC
IC2___________4017 Decade counter with 10 decoded outputs IC
SW1__________SPST Slider Switch
B1____________9V PP3 Battery Clip for PP3 Battery
Two Earclips with wires (see notes)

Circuit operation:

IC1 forms a narrow pulse, 2.5Hz oscillator feeding IC2. This chip generates the various timings for the output pulses. Output is taken at pins 2 & 3 to easily obtain negative going pulses also. Current output is limited to 600µA by R2 and can be regulated from 80 to 600µA by means of R3. The LED flashes every 2 seconds signaling proper operation and can also be used for setting purposes. It can be omitted together with R4, greatly increasing battery life.

Notes:
  • In order to obtain a more precise frequency setting take R1=1M2 and add a 500K trimmer in series with it.
  • In this case use a frequency meter to read 2.5Hz at pin 3 of IC1, or an oscilloscope to read 400msec pulses at pins 2, 3 or 10, adjusting the added trimmer.
  • A simpler setting can be made adjusting the trimmer to count exactly a LED flash every 2 seconds.
  • Earclips can be made with little plastic clips and cementing the end of the wire in a position suited to make good contact with earlobes.
  • Ultra-simple earclips can be made using a thin copper foil with rounded corners 4 cm. long and 1.5 cm. wide, soldering the wire end in the center, and then folding the foil in two parts holding the earlobes.
  • To ensure a better current transfer, this kind of devices usually has felt pads moistened with a conducting solution interposed between clips and skin.
  • Commercial sets have frequently a built-in timer. Timing sessions last usually 20 minutes to 1 hour. For this purpose you can use the Timed Beeper the Bedside Lamp Timer or the Jogging Timer circuits available on this website, adjusting the timing components in order to suit your needs.

Wire Loop Game

In the ‘Wire Loop Game’, a test of dexterity,  the player has to pass a metal hoop along a  twisted piece of wire without letting the hoop  touch the wire. Usually all the associated electronics does is ring a bell to indicate when the  player has lost. The version described here has  a few extra features to make things a bit more  exciting, adding a time limit to the game and a ticking sound during play. 

Two 555 timer ICs are used to provide these  functions. IC1 is configured as a monostable which controls the time allowed for the  game, adjustable using potentiometer P1. IC2  is a multivibrator to provide the ticking and Two 555 timer ICs are used to provide these  functions. IC1 is configured as a monostable which controls the time allowed for the  game, adjustable using potentiometer P1. IC2  is a multivibrator to provide the ticking and he continuous buzz that indicates when the  player has touched the wire with the hoop. 

Wire Loop Game Circuit diagram :

Wire Loop Game-Circuit Diagram
Wire Loop Game Circuit Diagram

When the monostable is in its steady state,  the output of IC1 (pin 3) is low. T1 acts as  an inverter, and D2 is thus forward biased.  R8 and R4 are therefore effectively in parallel, with the result that IC2 produces a low audible tone. The value of R4 is considerably  greater than that of R8, and so the frequency  of the buzz generated by IC2 is chiefly deter-mined by the value of R8.

When the monostable is triggered, the high  level at the output of IC1 is again inverted  by T1. D2 is reverse biased and so R8 is effectively removed from the circuit. The frequency of IC2 is now largely determined by  the value of R4. The ratio of R4 to R5 and the  value of C4 affect the mark and space periods for the multivibrator: for a satisfactory  ticking sound short pulses with long gaps  between work well. 

Whether a sound is produced also depends  on the voltage on pin 4 of IC2. When the 9 V  supply is connected the monostable is initially inactive and there is no voltage across  C1. Pin 4 (reset) on IC2 is thus low and no tone  is produced. IC1 is activated by a brief press of  S1, which generates a low-going trigger signal  on pin 2 to start the game. C1 now charges via  D1 and IC2 is allowed to oscillate, generating  the ticking sound. 

The pulse width of the monostable sets the  game duration, and can be adjusted using  P1. If the allowed time expires, or if the reset  input to IC1 is taken low (which happens when the hoop touches the wire), the monostable  returns to the quiescent state. This causes IC2  to generate the low buzz sound. D1 is now  reverse biased and C1 discharges through the  relatively high-valued resistor R9. After a few  seconds the voltage across C1 falls sufficiently  that the buzz stops and the circuit is ready for  the next player. 

The circuit can be built first on a breadboard,  so that the component values can easily be changed to suit particular preferences for  game duration and buzz pitch. When suitable  values have been selected the circuit can be  built more permanently on a printed circuit  board. The author used a sheet of plywood  to form a base for the game, the twisted wire  being fixed to the board and wired to the electronics mounted below it. 


Author: Andreas Binner

Acoustic Distress Beacon

An ELT (Emergency Locator Transmitter, also known as a distress beacon) is an emergency radio transmitter that is activated either manually or automatically by a crash sensor to aid the detection and location of aircraft in distress. This acoustic ELT project is intended for radio control (RC) model aircraft, which every now and then decide to go their own way and disappear into the undergrowth. 

Acoustic Distress Beacon Circuit diagram :

 
Acoustic Distress Beacon-Circuit Diagram
Acoustic Distress Beacon Circuit Diagram

The audio locating device described here enables model aircraft that have landed ‘off limits’ to be found again and employs its own independent power supply. The small cam-era battery shown in the circuit activates an acoustic sounder when radio contact is lost and produces a short signal tone (bleep) every ten seconds for more than 25 hours. Current consumption in standby and passive (with jumper J1 set) modes is negligible. The timing generator for the alarm tone is the Schmitt trigger AND-gate IC1.B; its asymmetric duty cycle drives a 5 V DC sounder via MOSFET transistor T1. All the time that the RC receiver output is delivering positive pulses, the oscillator is blocked by IC1.A and diode D1. Setting jumper J1 parallel to C2 also disables the oscillator and serves to ‘disarm’ the distress beacon.

Soldering Iron Tip Preserver

Although 60/40 solder melts at about 200&degC, the tip temperature of a soldering iron should be at about 370&degC. This is necessary to make a good quick joint, without the risk of overheating delicate components because the iron has to be kept on the joint for too long. Unfortunately, at this temperature, the tip oxidises rapidly and needs constant cleaning. That's where this circuit can help - it keeps the soldering tip to just below 200&degC while the iron is at rest. Oxidisation is then negligible and the iron can be brought back up to soldering temperature in just a few seconds when needed. In addition, normal soldering operation, where the iron is returned to rest only momentarily, is unaffected because of the thermal inertia of the iron. Two 555 timers (IC1 & IC2) form the heart of the circuit. 

Soldering Iron Tip Preserver Circuit diagram:


soldering-iron-tip-preserver circuit diagram
Soldering Iron Tip Preserver Circuit Diagram

IC1 is wired as a monostable and provides an initial warm-up time of about 45 seconds to bring the iron up to temperature. At the end of this period, its pin 3 output switches high and IC2 (which is wired in astable configuration) switches the iron on - via relay RLY1 - for about one second in six to maintain the standby temperature. The presence of the iron in its stand is sensed by electrical contact between the two and some slight modification of the stand may be necessary to achieve this. When the iron is at rest, Q1's base is pulled low and so Q1 is off. Conversely, when the iron is out of its stand, Q1 turns on and pulls pins 2 & 6 of IC2 high, to inhibit its operation. During this time, pin 3 of IC2 is low and so the iron is continuously powered via RLY1's normally closed (NC) contacts. Note that the particular soldering iron that the circuit was designed for has its own 24V supply transformer. Other irons may need different power supply arrangements. The warm-up time and standby temperature can be varied by altering R2 and R5, as necessary.


Author: Alan March - Copyright: Silicon Chip Electronics

Digital Step-Km Counter

This circuit measures the distance covered during a walk. Hardware is located in a small box slipped in pants' pocket and the display is conceived in the following manner: the leftmost display D2 (the most significant digit) shows 0 to 9 Km. and its dot is always on to separate Km. from hm. The rightmost display D1 (the least significant digit) shows hundreds meters and its dot illuminates after every 50 meters of walking. A beeper (excludable), signals each count unit, occurring every two steps. A normal step was calculated to span around 78 centimeters, thus the LED signaling 50 meters illuminates after 64 steps (or 32 operations of the mercury switch), the display indicates 100 meters after 128 steps and so on.

For low battery consumption the display illuminates only on request, pushing on P2. Accidental reset of the counters is avoided because to reset the circuit both pushbuttons must be operated together. Obviously, this is not a precision meter, but its approximation degree was found good for this kind of device. In any case, the most critical thing to do is the correct placement of the mercury switch inside of the box and the setting of its sloping degree.

Digital Step-Km Counter Circuit diagram:


digital_step_km_counter_circuit_diagram
Digital Step-Km Counter Circuit Diagram

Parts:
R1 = 22K 1/4W Resistor
R2 = 2.2M 1/4W Resistor
R3 = 22K 1/4W Resistor
R4 = 1M 1/4W Resistor
R5 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R6 = 47R 1/4W Resistor
R7 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R8 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R9 = 1K 1/4W Resistor
C1 = 47nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C2 = 100nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C3 = 10nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C4 = 10µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1 = Common-cathode 7-segment LED mini-display (Hundreds meters)
D2 = Common-cathode 7-segment LED mini-display (Kilometers)
Q1 = BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistors
Q2 = BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistors
P1 = SPST Pushbutton (Reset)
P2 = SPST Pushbutton (Display)
IC1 = 4093 Quad 2 input Schmitt NAND Gate IC
IC2 = 4024 7 stage ripple counter IC
IC3 = 4026 Decade counter with decoded 7-segment display outputs IC
IC4 = 4026 Decade counter with decoded 7-segment display outputs IC
SW1 = SPST Mercury Switch, called also Tilt Switch
SW2 = SPST Slider Switch (Sound on-off)
SW3 = SPST Slider Switch (Power on-off)
BZ = Piezo sounder
B1 = 3V Battery (2 AA 1.5V Cells in series)

Circuit operation:

IC 1A & IC 1B form a monostable multi vibrator providing some degree of freedom from excessive bouncing of the mercury switch. Therefore a clean square pulse enters IC2 that divides by 64. Q2 drives the LED dot-segment of D1 every 32 pulses counted by IC2. Either IC3 & IC4 divide by 10 and drive the displays. P1 resets the counters and P2 enables the displays. IC1C generates an audio frequency square wave that is enabled for a short time at each monostable count. Q1 drives the piezo sounder and SW2 allows disabling the beep.

Notes:
  • Experiment with placement and sloping degree of mercury switch inside the box: this is very critical.
  • Try to obtain a pulse every two walking steps. Listening to the beeper is extremely useful during setup.
  • Trim R6 value to change beeper sound power.
  • Push P1 and P2 to reset.
  • This circuit is primarily intended for walking purposes. For jogging, further great care must be used with mercury switch placement to avoid undesired counts.
  • When the display is disabled current consumption is negligible, therefore SW3 can be omitted.

Flashing-LED Battery-status Indicator

Signals when an on-circuit battery is exhausted 5V to 12V operating voltage A Battery-status Indicator circuit can be useful, mainly to monitor portable Test-gear instruments and similar devices. LED D1 flashes to attire the user's attention, signaling that the circuit is running, so it will not be left on by mistake. The circuit generates about two LED flashes per second, but the mean current drawing will be about 200µA. Transistors Q1 and Q2 are wired as an uncommon complementary astable multivibrator: both are off 99% of the time, saturating only when the LED illuminates, thus contributing to keep very low current consumption. 

Flashing-LED Battery-status Indicator Circuit diagram :

Flashing-LED Battery
Flashing-LED Battery-status Indicator Circuit Diagram

The circuit will work with battery supply voltages in the 5 - 12V range and the LED flashing can be stopped at the desired battery voltage (comprised in the 4.8 - 9V value) by adjusting Trimmer R4. This range can be modified by changing R3 and/or R4 value slightly.

When the battery voltage approaches the exhausting value, the LED flashing frequency will fall suddenly to alert the user. Obviously, when the battery voltage has fallen below this value, the LED will remain permanently off. To keep stable the exhausting voltage value, diode D1 was added to compensate Q1 Base-Emitter junction changes in temperature. The use of a Schottky-barrier device (e.g. BAT46, 1N5819 and the like) for D1 is mandatory: the circuit will not work if a common silicon diode like the 1N4148 is used in its place.

Parts :
R1,R7__________220R  1/4W Resistors
R2_____________120K  1/4W Resistor
R3_______________5K6 1/4W Resistor
R4_______________5K  1/2W Trimmer Cermet or Carbon
R5______________33K  1/4W Resistor
R6_____________680K  1/4W Resistor
R8_____________100K  1/4W Resistor
R9_____________180R  1/4W Resistor
C1,C2____________4µ7  25V Electrolytic Capacitors
D1____________BAT46  100V 150mA Schottky-barrier Diode
D2______________LED  Red 5mm.
Q1____________BC547   45V 100mA NPN Transistor
Q2____________BC557   45V 100mA PNP Transistor
B1_______________5V to 12V Battery supply
Notes :
  • Mean current drawing of the circuit can be reduced further on by raising R1, R7 and R9 values.
Source : Red Circuits

Long-Delay Stop Switch

Presettable times for train stops in stations are indispensable if you want to operate your model railway more or less realistically according to a timetable. This circuit shows how a 555 timer can be used with a relatively small timing capacitor to generate very long delay times as necessary by using a little trick (scarcely known among model railway electronic technicians): pulsed charging of the timing net-work. Such long delays can be used in hidden yards with through tracks, for instance.  As the timer is designed for half-wave operation, it requires only a single lead to the transformer and one to the switching track or reed contact when used with a Märklin AC system (H0 or H1). The other lead can be connected to any desired grounding point for the common ground of the track and lighting circuits.

Long-Delay Stop Switch Circuit diagram :

Long-Delay Stop Switch-Circuit Diagram
Long-Delay Stop Switch Circuit Diagram

As seen from the outside, the timer acts as a monostable flip-flop. The output (pin 3) is low in the quiescent state. If a negative signal is applied to the trigger input (pin 2), the output goes high and C4 starts charging via R3 and R4. When the voltage on C4 reaches 2/3 of the supply voltage, it discharges via an internal transistor connected to pin 7 to 1/3 of the supply voltage and the output (pin 3) goes low. The two threshold values (1/3 and 2/3) are directly proportional to the supply voltage. The duration of the output signal is independent of the supply voltage: t= 1.1(R4 + R5) × C4 

if the potentiometer is connected directly to the supply line (A and B joined). The maximum delay time that can be generated using the component values shown in the schematic diagram is 4.8 minutes. How-ever, it can be increased by a factor of approximately 10 if the timing network is charged using positive half-waves of the AC supply voltage (reduced to the 10–16-V level) instead of a constant DC voltage. 

The positive half-waves of the AC voltage reach the timing network via D2, the transistor, and D3. Diode D3 prevents C4 from being discharged between the pulses. The total resistance of R4 and R5 should not be too high (no more than 10 MΩ if possible), since electrolytic capacitors (such as are needed for C4) have significant leakage currents. Incidentally, the leakage current of aluminium electrolytic capacitors can be consider-ably reduced by using a supply voltage well below the rated voltage. Capacitor C6 is intended to suppress noise. It forms a filter network in combination with an internal voltage-divider resistor.
If a vehicle happens to remain standing over the reed switch so the magnet holds the contacts constantly closed, the timer will automatically be retriggered when the preset delay times out. In this case the relay armature will not release and the locomotive will come to the ‘end of the line’ in violation of the timetable. This problem can be reliably eliminated using R6, R7 and C5. This trigger circuit ensures that only one trigger pulse is generated, regardless of how long the reed switch remains closed. RC network R8/C7 on the reset pin ensures that the timer behaves properly on switch-on (which is far from being something to be taken for granted with many versions of the 555 or 556 dual timer).
Reed switches have several special characteristics that must be kept in mind when fitting them. The contact blades, which are made from a ferromagnetic material, assume opposite magnetic polarities under the influence of a magnetic field and attract each other. Here the position and orientation of the magnet, the distance between the magnet and the reed switch, and the direction of motion of the magnet relative to the switch are important factors. The fragility of the glass hous-ing and the thermal stress from soldering (stay at least 3 mm away from the glass housing) require a heat sink to be used between the soldering point and the glass/metal seal. A suitable tweezers or flat-jawed pliers can be used for this pur-pose. If you need to bend the leads, use flat-jawed pliers to protect the glass/metal seal against mechanical stresses. 

Matching magnets in various sizes are available from toy merchants and electronics mail-order firms. They should preferably be fitted underneath the loco-motive or carriage. However, the magnet can also be fitted on the side of a vehicle with a plastic body. In this case the reed switch can be hidden in a mast, bridge column or similar structure or placed in a tunnel, since the distance must be kept to less than around 10 mm, even with a strong magnet. If fitting the circuit still presents problems (especially with Märklin Z-gauge Mini-Club), one remedy is to generate the trigger using a unipolar digital Hall switch, such as the Siemens TLE4905L or Allegro UGN3120. To avoid coupled-in interference, the stop timer should be fitted relatively close to the Hall sensor (use screened cable if necessary). Pay attention to the polarity of the magnet when fitting it to the bottom of the vehicle. With both types of sensors, the South pole must point toward the front face of the Hall IC (the face with the type marking). The North pole is sometimes marked by a dab of paint. Generally speaking, the polarity must be determined experimentally. 

Fitting the circuit is not a problem with Z-gauge and 1-gauge tracks, since the distance between the iron parts (rails) and the Hall switch is sufficiently large. In an HO system, some modifications must be made to the track bed of the Märklin metal track. Cut a suitably sized ‘window’ between one wheel rail and the centre rail in order to prevent secondary magnetic circuits from interfering with the operation of the sensor. Keep the distance between the magnet and the case of the Hall switch between 5 and 10 mm, depending on the strength of the magnet, to ensure reliable actuation.

Lighting Up Model Aircraft

This circuit provides aircraft modellers with extremely realistic beacon and marker lights at minimum  outlay. The project ’s Strobe out-put (A) provides four brief pulses repeated periodically for the wing  (white strobe) lights. In addition the Beacon output (B) gives a double pulse to drive a red LED for indicating the aircraft’s active operational status. On the proto-type this is usually a red rotating  beacon known as an Anti-Collision Light (ACL). The circuit is equally useful for road vehicle modellers, who can use it to flash headlights and blue emergency lights. 

Lighting Up Model Aircraft Circuit diagram :


Lighting Up Model Aircraft-Circuit Diagram
Lighting Up Model Aircraft Circuit Diagram

All signals are generated by a 4060 14-stage binary counter and some minimal output selection logic. Cycle time is determined by the way the internal oscillator is con-figured (resistor and capacitor on pins 9/10) and can be varied within quite broad limits. High-efficiency LEDs are your first choice for the indicators connected to the Bea-con and Strobe outputs (remember to fit series resistors appropriate to the operating voltage Ub and the current specified for the LED used). 

The sample circuit is for operating voltages between 5 and 12 V. Cur- rent flow through the two BS170 FET devices must not exceed 500 mA.

Author : Werner Ludwig

Converting a DCM Motor

We recently bought a train set made by a renowned company and just couldn’t resist looking inside the locomotive. Although it did have an electronic decoder, the DCM motor was already available 35 (!) years ago. It is most likely that this motor is used due to financial constraints, because Märklin (as you probably guessed) also has a modern 5-pole motor as part of its range. Incidentally, they have recently introduced a brushless model. 

The DCM motor used in our locomotive is still an old-fashioned 3-pole series motor with an electromagnet to provide motive power. The new 5-pole motor has a permanent magnet. We therefore wondered if we couldn’t improve the driving characteristics if we powered the field winding separately, using a bridge rectifier and a 27 Ω current limiting resistor. This would effectively create a permanent magnet. The result was that the driving characteristics improved at lower speeds, but the initial acceleration remained the same. But a constant 0.5 A flows through the winding, which seems wasteful of the (limited) track power. A small circuit can reduce this current to less than half, making this technique more acceptable. 

Converting a DCM Motor Circuit diagram :


Converting a DCM Motor-Circuit Diagram
Converting a DCM Motor Circuit Diagram

The field winding has to be disconnected from the rest (3 wires). A freewheeling diode (D1, Schottky) is then connected across the whole winding. The centre tap of the winding is no longer used. When FET T1 turns on, the current through the winding increases from zero until it reaches about 0.5 A. At this current the voltage drop across R4-R7 becomes greater than the reference voltage across D2 and the opamp will turn off the FET. The current through the winding continues flowing via D1, gradually reducing in strength. When the current has fallen about 10% (due to hysteresis caused by R3), IC1 will turn on T1 again. The cur-rent will increase again to 0.5 A and the FET is turned off again. This goes on continuously.
.
The current through the field winding is fairly constant, creating a good imitation of a permanent magnet. The nice thing about this circuit is that the total current consumption is only about 0.2 A, whereas the current flow through the winding is a continuous 0.5 A. 

We made this modification because we wanted to convert the locomotive for use with a DCC decoder. A new controller is needed in any case, because the polarity on the rotor winding has to be reversed to change its direction of rotation. In the original motor this was done by using the other half of the winding.
There is also a good non-electrical alter-native: put a permanent magnet in the motor. But we didn’t have a suitable magnet, whereas all electronic parts could be picked straight from the spares box. 

Author : Karel Walraven

Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator

This is a small, portable set, designed for those aiming at look improvement. The Bio-Stimulator provides muscles' stimulation and invigoration but, mainly, it could be an aid in removing cellulite. Tape the electrodes to the skin at both ends of the chosen muscle and rotate P1 knob slowly until a light itch sensation is perceived. Each session should last about 30 - 40 minutes. 

Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator Circuit diagram :

Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator-Circuit Diagram
Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator Circuit Diagram

C1 generates 150µSec. pulses at about 80Hz frequency. Q1 acts as a buffer and Q2 inverts the polarity of the pulses and drives the Transformer. The amplitude of the output pulses is set by P1 and approximately displayed by the brightness of LED D1. D2 protects Q2 against high voltage peaks generated by T1 inductance during switching.
Parts :
  • P1-----4K7 Linear Potentiometer
  • R1-----180K   1/4W Resistor
  • R2-----1K8  1/4W Resistor (see Notes)
  • R3-----2K2  1/4W Resistor
  • R4-----100R   1/4W Resistor
  • C1-----100nF  63V Polyester Capacitor
  • C2-----100µF  25V Electrolytic Capacitor
  • D1-----LED  Red 5mm.
  • D2-----1N4007  1000V 1A Diode
  • Q1,Q2-----BC327  45V 800mA PNP Transistors
  • IC1-----7555 or TS555CN CMos Timer IC
  • T1-----220V Primary, 12V Secondary 1.2VA Mains transformer (see Notes)
  • SW1-----SPST Switch (Ganged with P1)
  • B1-----3V Battery (two 1.5V AA or AAA cells in series etc.)
Notes :
  • T1 is a small mains transformer 220 to 12V @ 100 or 150mA. It must be reverse connected i.e. the 12V secondary winding across Q2 Collector and negative ground, and the 220V primary winding to output electrodes.
  • Output voltage is about 60V positive and 150V negative but output current is so small that there is no electric-shock danger.
  • In any case P1 should be operated by the "patient", starting with the knob fully counter-clockwise, then rotating it slowly clockwise until the LED starts to illuminate. Stop rotating the knob when a light itch sensation is perceived.
    Best knob position is usually near the center of its range.
  • In some cases a greater pulse duration can be more effective in cellulite treatment. Try changing R2 to 5K6 or 10K maximum: stronger pulses will be easily perceived and the LED will shine more brightly.
  • Electrodes can be obtained by small metal plates connected to the output of the circuit via usual electric wire and can be taped to the skin. In some cases, moistening them with little water has proven useful.
  • SW1 should be ganged to P1 to avoid abrupt voltage peaks on the "patient's" body at switch-on, but a stand alone SPST switch will work quite well, provided you remember to set P1 knob fully counter-clockwise at switch-on.
  • Current drawing of this circuit is about 1mA @ 3V DC.
  • Some commercial sets have four, six or eight output electrodes. To obtain this you can retain the part of the circuit comprising IC1, R1, R2, C1, C2, SW1 and B1. Other parts in the diagram (i.e. P1, R3, R4, D1, D2, Q2 & T1) can be doubled, trebled or quadrupled. Added potentiometers and R3 series resistors must be wired in parallel and all connected across Emitter of Q1 and positive supply.
  • Commercial sets have frequently a built-in 30 minutes timer. For this purpose you can use the Timed Beeper the Bedside Lamp Timer or the Jogging Timer circuits available on this Website, adjusting the timing components to suit your needs.
Disclaimer: we can't claim or prove any therapeutic effectiveness for this device.

Cheap Bicycle Alarm Schematics Circuit

The author wanted a very cheap and simple alarm for some of his possessions, such as his electrically assisted bicycle. This alarm is based on a cheap window alarm, which has a time-switch added to it with a 1-minute time-out. The output  pulse of the 555 replaces the reed switch in the window alarm. The 555 is triggered by a sensor mounted near the front  wheel, in combination with a magnet that is mounted on the spokes. This sensor and the magnet were taken from a cheap bicycle computer. 

Cheap Bicycle Alarm Schematics Circuit diagram :


Cheap Bicycle Alarm-Circuit Diagram
Cheap Bicycle Alarm Circuit Diagram

The front wheel of the bicycle is kept unlocked, so that the reed  switch closes momentarily when the wheel turns. This  triggers the 555, which in turn activates the window alarm. The circuit around the 555 takes very little current and can  be powered by the batteries in the window alarm.  There  is just enough room  left inside the enclosure of the window  alarm to mount the time-switch inside it. 

The result is a very cheap, compact device, with only a single cable going to the reed switch on the front wheel. And the noise this thing produces is just unbelievable! After about one minute the noise stops and the alarm goes back into standby mode. The bicycle alarm should be mounted in an inconspicuous place, such as underneath the saddle, inside a (large) front light, in the battery compartment, etc.
Hopefully the alarm scares any potential thief away, or at least it makes other members of the public aware that something isn't quite right. 

Caution. The installation and use of this circuit may be subject to legal restrictions in your country, state or area.

Author : Gerard Seuren

Simple Digital Pulser Circuit Diagram

This is a Simple Digital logic Pulser Circuit Diagram. The logic pulser generates pulses at 500 Hz or 0.5 Hz. When the pulser`s.tip connects to an input that is already being driven high or low, the pulser senses thelogic state and automatically pulses the input briefly to the opposite state. 

Simple Digital Pulser Circuit Diagram


Simple Digital Pulser Circuit Diagram

Older Post ►
eXTReMe Tracker
 

Copyright 2011 Diagram Digital Schematic is proudly powered by blogger.com